This is a new page that i have started...
to share information that many puppy purchasers ask...
need to watch out for...
and need to know !
.......................................
keep yourself educated on these signs of potential
dangers that can harm your new puppy !!
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i will be updating it daily with new and informative puppy information..
(use your "CTRL-F" keys on your keyboard to search for key words :o) ....
EVERY PUPPY REQUIRES DEWORMING !!
send a fecal (poopy) sample to your local vet to be assessed for worms as soon as you receive you new baby ! ...
TREATMENT: My preference is Drontol (prescription only)
At what age do I worm my puppy? Puppies 4 to 12 weeks of age should be wormed every two weeks.
From age 12 weeks to 6 months puppies should be wormed monthly
From 6 months onward dogs and puppies should be wormed every 3 months.
What are some of the symptoms that my dog or puppy has intestinal worms?
Loss of appetite
The dog's coat is in poor condition
The dog has a pot belly appearance - especially in puppies
The dog or puppy suffers weight loss
Diarrhea (sometimes bloody diarrhea)
Vomiting
Lethargy
Anemia - The dog or puppy has pale gums
Worm segments around the anal area. These segments look like small grains of rice or sesame seeds.
Continual licking of the anal area
The dog or puppy scoots around on it's rear end.
Coughing if juvenile roundworm have migrated to the dog's lungs
Puppy Pimples/ Strangles- PLEASE READ !
this can kill your puppy within one week !
(i know it's a lot to read, but well worth it !)
the biggest sign of puppy strangles is the Lymph nodes around the throat.. if you feel the slightest bit of enlargement, take your puppy to the vet immediately, that is a sign of infection that could spread throughout the bloodstream, and create what we call "puppy strangles".. this is aggressive and can cause death if not treated with a STRONG antibiotic (Clavamox) and steriod (Prednesone)!! word of caution; if steroids are administered to the puppy, your vaccinations will be weakened and you don't want to expose your puppy to the elements until the steroids are stopped, and then restart the series of vaccinations ... :o)
Obvious signs are:
*pimples start around the mouth and chin, then on the head and around the eyes, then inside the ears and armpits, also check the belly and the toes
*swollen glands ("Strangles"); check under the jawbone near the ears for a lump
*puss starting on the pimples
*loss of appetite
*loss of weight
*collapse (this is an emergency status!)
OFFER PLENTY OF WATER to avoid dehydration !
water is more important than food at this point..
TREATMENT: Clavamox and Prednisone
NO BATHS !.. the water and soap seems to spread the pimples ..
I want to alert you to a condition that may onset in puppies between the ages of two and four months. Because it is often misdiagnosed and because it has potentially fatal consequences, you may want to bring this information to your veterinarian's attention should your puppy present any of the typical symptoms:
The condition is variously referred to as juvenile cellulitis, cellular dermatitis, juvenile pyoderma, or puppy strangles. It has a number of symptoms, any and all of which may occur, and in varying order. Among them are the appearance of small, pimple-like bumps around the eyes, the muzzle, the abdomen, and other parts of the body. These mock the appearance of bacterial rashes, and may break open and weep a yellowish liquid and then crust over. While many minor conditions may cause a belly rash on pups, the presence of pustules inside the ears is a real warning sign. They begin quite small and can eventually cover the inner surface of the ear with weeping pustules. The entire ear leather may also swell significantly. Other signs include discharge from, swelling of, and hair loss around the eyes, swelling of the muzzle with attendant hair loss, and swollen lymph nodes in the throat and in the backs of the thighs. Be particularly concerned if rash-like areas are accompanied by swollen glands. This is primarily an immune system disorder, and although it may look like a bacterial infection, it will not respond to antibiotic treatment alone. Other similarappearing skin outbreaks, such as puppy impetigo, result from minor bacterial infections, and will ultimately disappear whether treated or not. This is not the case with cellulitis, although some veterinary dermatologists believe there may be a rod-like bacteria associated with the condition, similar to the one that causes cat scratch disease. Essentially what is going on with the pups is that their immune systems are activated by normal development and environmental exposures but then overreact and start identifying the body's own tissues as agents to attack. The lymph glands swell since it is the lymphatic system that supplies and distributes the body's immune responses, and the pustules are actually filled with non-infected, sterile lymphatic fluid. You might think of the pup as having temporarily become allergic to himself. The condition is evidently not an uncommon one and can occur in all breeds of dogs. It cannot be transmitted by contact from one littermate to another, or to anything or anyone else; and it can occur in one, a few, or all of the pups in a litter. The cause is not completely understood, but it does not seem to be a genetic problem. It generally onsets in pups between the ages of two and four months, takes two to eight weeks to run its course, and if properly treated, leaves the pup with a completely healthy and functional immune system and no effect on future health or lifespan. Because the immune system is running amok, so to speak, treatment consists of suppressing its action with corticosteroids, usually prednisone, with associated backup antibiotics in case of exposure to bacterial infection while the immune system is suppressed. Depending on the severity of the condition and the pup's response to treatment, the course of medication will run two to eight weeks. It is important to monitor the pup carefully once treatment has stopped. If the condition recurs, medication must be reinstituted for a longer period. Eventually the immune system will sort itself out. If the condition goes unidentified and untreated for some time, there may be rather extensive facial hair loss, which may result in some permanent adult scarring, but this is not the usual case. The other grave danger to the pup comes from the swelling of the lymph glands in the throat, which may actually enlarge to the point where they interfere with the pup's swallowing and breathing, thus the name puppy strangles. While on steroid therapy you may notice an increased appetite, rather alarming weight gain, and a tendency to pant and to appear overheated and uncomfortable. These are all unfortunate but unavoidable side effects which must be endured if they occur; they will resolve once the steroids are no longer needed. There is one possible complication from taking steroids at such an early age that may have serious adult consequences: It is thought that perhaps the steroids in some manner interfere with normal skeletal growth and development. Of particular concern are the hip joints. To counteract any such potential damage, it is now recommended that the pup take an oral glucosamine complex supplement throughout the course of steroid therapy. You can use Vetri-Science's Glyco-Flex, Vetri-Science's Multi Source Glucosamine, or commercially marketed human glucosamine complex in the same approximate proportions: In a product with a total content of 500 mg of glucosamine, there should be about 175 mg. each of glucosamine sulfate and glucosamine hydrochloride, and about 90-100 mg of n-acetyl glucosamine. Follow the recommended dosage for the pup's weight on the Vetri-Science products. For human products, give 500 mg. daily. You can purchase the Vetri-Science products directly by mail order from KV Vet Supply, 3190 N Road, P. O. Box 245, David City, NE 68632. Telephone is 800-423-8211; fax is 800-269-0093; web site is www.kvvet.com. Phone hours are Mon-Fri 7AM-8PM CST. Sat 8AM-5PM. They have the best prices I have been able tolocate, and their shipping is fast and reliable.
Another important situation to be aware of is that while the pup's immune system is being suppressed by the steroids, he will be unable to defend himself against any viral or parasitic disease that he encounters. The antibiotics will usually take care of any bacterial problems, but the pup is especially vulnerable to parvovirus and demodectic mange at this time, and you must exercise extreme care not to expose him to possible contaminated environments nor let him get overtired or overstressed with activities or concentrated training. This does not mean to put him into a plastic bubble, but use good common sense, and for management of parvovirus make sure you have a spray bottle of a 1:30 chlorine bleach to water mixture on hand at all times to decontaminate all new people and objects in the pup's environment. It would also be useful to spray the pads of the pup’s feet with the bleach mixture anytime after he ventures into a public or semi-public area. Unless your pup is actually taking steroids, you do not need to become alarmed or reduce his exposure in any way. If he does develop the condition, however, it will also mean that there is no point in giving any vaccinations while he is on steroids, and probably any vaccinations given prior to his developing the condition have been ineffective. Once he is over the cellulitis and has completed the course of steroids, consult with your vet or breeders for an appropriate vaccination schedule. When the steroids have been discontinued, observe your pup's condition and behavior carefully. There may have been exposure to a bacteria that is not sensitive or is resistant to the particular supportive antibiotics that he has been taking. Symptoms of infection may have been masked by the steroids, and will become apparent once they are discontinued: I had an Irish Setter pup display septic arthritis from a streptococcus infection in both elbows and one knee following discontinuation of steroids: the antibiotic lincocin that she had been taking was not effective against this bacteria; the infection had been ongoing for some time in a masked state; and several weeks of ampicillin therapy were necessary to clear the infection and return the joints to normal. If you should run into difficulties with your pup, or if your own veterinarian is unfamiliar with this often misdiagnosed condition, or if you are not satisfied with the pup's progress, you may have your vet contact mine. He is fully alerted to the situation and prepared to discuss treatment. Or you may wish to call him yourself or bring your pup to him for an exam and treatment. He is Dr. Robert Titchenal, Petaluma Veterinary Hospital, 2443 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma; (707) 762-3511.
The current treatment recommended by Dr. Titchenal consists of prednisone and an antibiotic. Suitable antibiotics are Clavamox, Cephalexin or Clindamycin. For a pup in the 20-pound range, Dr. Titchenal suggests giving 15 mg. of prednisone twice daily for three days, then 10 mg twice daily for three days, then 10 mg once daily for three days, then 5 mg once daily for three days. Give 250 mg. of Cephalexin or 6.25 mg/lb. of Clavamox twice daily and 500 mg glucosamine complex throughout the course of prednisone. After these 12 days, discontinue the prednisone and antibiotics and see if symptoms recur. If they do, steroid and antibiotic therapy must be reinstituted. Continue the glucosamine for at least two weeks after final prednisone use.
COCCIDIA
MUST BE TREATED IMMEDIATELY !!
Obvious signs are:
watery diarrhea
weight loss
loss of appetite
signs of dehydration
listlessness/lethargy
stumbling
OFFER PLENTY OF WATER!
TREATMENT: Albon (prescription only)
There are many different species of coccidia but for dogs, the most common infections are with coccidia of the denus isospora (pictured here). The information presented here pertains to Isospora species.
Coccidia are single celled organisms that infect the intestine. They are microscopic parasites detectable on routine fecal tests in the same way that worms are, but coccidia are not worms and are not susceptible to deworming medications. They are also not visible to the naked eye. Coccidia infection causes a watery diarrhea that is sometimes bloody and can be a life-threatening problem to an especially young or small pet.
Oocysts (pronounced o'o-sists), like those shown above, are passed in stool. In the outside world, the oocysts begin to mature or sporulate. After they have adequately matured, they become infective to any host (dog or cat) that accidentally swallows them.
To be more precise, coccidia come from fecal-contaminated ground. They are swallowed when a pet grooms/licks the dirt off itself. In some cases, sporulated oocysts are swallowed by mice and the host is infected when it eats the mouse. Coccidia infection is especially common in young animals housed in groups (in shelters, rescue areas, kennels, etc.) This is a common parasite and is not necessarily a sign of poor husbandry.
The sporulated oocyst breaks open and releases eight sporozoites. These sporozoites each finds an intestinal cell and begins to reproduce inside it. Ultimately, the cell is so full of what are at this stage called merozoites that it bursts, releasing the merozoites that seek out their own intestinal cells and the process begins again. It is important to note how thousands of intestinal cells can become infected and destroyed as a result of accidentally swallowing a single oocyst.
As the intestinal cells are destroyed in larger and larger numbers, intestinal function is disrupted and a bloody, watery diarrhea results. The fluid loss can be dangerously dehydrating to a young or small pet.
A routine fecal test is a good idea for any new puppy or kitten whether there are signs of diarrhea or not as youngsters are commonly parasitized. This sort of test is also a good idea for any patient with diarrhea and is recommended at least once a year for healthy dogs and cats as a screening test. The above photograph shows coccidia oocysts seen under the microscope in a fecal sample. Coccidia are microscopic and a test such as this is necessary to rule them in. It should be noted that small numbers of coccidia can be hard to detect so just because a fecal sample tests negative, this does not mean that the pet is not infected. Sometimes several fecal tests are performed, especially in a young pet with a refractory diarrhea; parasites may not be evident until later in the course of the condition.
The most common medicines used against coccidia are called coccidiostats. They inhibit coccidial reproduction. Once the numbers stop expanding, it is easier for the patient’s immune system to catch up and wipe the infection out. This also means, though, that the time it takes to clear the infection depends on how many coccidia organisms there are to start with and how strong the patient’s immune system is. A typical treatment course lasts about a week or two, but it is important to realize that the medication should be given until the diarrhea resolves plus an extra couple of days. Medication should be given for at least 5 days total. Sometimes courses as long as a month are needed. In dogs and cats, sulfa-based antibiotics are the most commonly used coccidiostats.
The use of sulfa drugs in pregnancy can cause birth defects. Sulfa drug use can also lead to false positive test results for urine glucose.
There is another medication that is worth mentioning and that is Ponazuril, a large animal product. This medication is actually able to curtail a coccidial infection in five doses or less and has been used in thousands of shelter puppies and kittens with no adverse effects. This product would seem to be superior to the usual sulfa drugs, but the problem that keeps it from becoming a mainstream treatment is the fact that it is available only as a paste for horses and must be diluted down to create an appropriate small animal formula. The large volumes of product yielded are not cost effective if only occasional patients are treated for this parasite. Ponazuril is thus most commonly used in kennels, catteries, and animal shelters though one may be pleasantly surprised to find it in stock at one's regular veterinary office.
While there are species of coccidia that can infect people (Toxoplasma and Cryptosporidium, for example), the Isospora species of dogs and cats are not infective to people. Other pets may become infected from exposure to infected fecal matter but it is important to note that this is usually an infection of the young (i.e. the immature immune system tends to let the coccidia infection reach large numbers whereas the mature immune system probably will not.) In most cases, the infected new puppy or kitten does not infect the resident adult animal.
CANINE PARVOVIRUS
Very Deadly BUT preventable with vaccinations !
Highly contagious, death within 3-5 days !!
Sadly, treatment is almost always too late...
Obvious signs are:
watery, bloody, odd smelling diarrhea
vomiting
extreme weight loss
NO appetite
extreme dehydration
extreme listlessness/lethargy
stumbling/falling
TREATMENT: Hospitalization !
Canine parvovirus type 2 (CPV2, colloquially parvo) is a contagious virus mainly affecting dogs. The disease is highly contagious and is spread from dog to dog by direct or indirect contact with their feces. It can be especially severe in puppies that are not protected by maternal antibodies or vaccination. It has two distinct presentations, a cardiac and intestinal form. The common signs of the intestinal form are severe vomiting and dysentery. The cardiac form causes respiratory or cardiovascular failure in young puppies. Treatment often involves veterinary hospitalization. Vaccines can prevent this infection, but mortality can reach 91% in untreated cases. Canine parvovirus will not infect humans.[1]
Dogs that develop the disease show symptoms of the illness within 5 to 10 days. The symptoms include lethargy, vomiting, fever, and diarrhea (usually bloody). Diarrhea and vomiting result in dehydration and secondary infections can set in. Due to dehydration, the dog's electrolyte balance can become critically affected. Because the normal intestinal lining is also compromised, blood and protein leak into the intestines leading to anemia and loss of protein, and endotoxins escaping into the bloodstream, causing endotoxemia. Dogs have a distinctive odor in the later stages of the infection. The white blood cell level falls, further weakening the dog. Any or all of these factors can lead to shock and death.[20] The first sign of CPV is lethargy. Usually the second symptoms would be loss of appetite or diarrhea followed by vomiting.
Diagnosis
Diagnosis is made through detection of CPV2 in the feces by either an EIA or a hemagglutination test, or by electron microscopy. PCR has become available to diagnose CPV2, and can be used later in the disease when potentially less virus is being shed in the feces that may not be detectable by EIA.[23] Clinically, the intestinal form of the infection can sometimes be confused with coronavirus or other forms of enteritis. Parvovirus, however, is more serious and the presence of bloody diarrhea, a low white blood cell count, and necrosis of the intestinal lining also point more towards parvovirus, especially in an unvaccinated dog. The cardiac form is typically easier to diagnose because the symptoms are distinct.[4]
Prevention and decontamination
Prevention is the only way to ensure that a puppy or dog remains healthy because the disease is extremely virulent and contagious. The virus is extremely hardy and has been found to survive in feces and other organic material such as soil for over a year. It survives extremely cold and hot temperatures. The only household disinfectant that kills the virus is bleach.[20]
Puppies are generally vaccinated in a series of doses, extending from the earliest time that the immunity derived from the mother wears off until after that passive immunity is definitely gone.[26] Older puppies (16 weeks or older) are given 3 vaccinations 3 to 4 weeks apart.[21] The duration of immunity of vaccines for CPV2 has been tested for all major vaccine manufacturers in the United States and has been found to be at least three years after the initial puppy series and a booster 1 year later.[27]
A dog that successfully recovers from CPV2 sheds the virus for a few days. Ongoing infection risk is primarily from fecal contamination of the environment due to the virus's ability to survive many months in the environment. Neighbours and family members with dogs should be notified of infected animals so that they can ensure that their dogs are vaccinated or tested for immunity. The vaccine will take up to 2 weeks to reach effective levels of immunity; the contagious individual should remain in quarantine until other animals are protected.[28]
Treatment
Survival rate depends on how quickly CPV is diagnosed, the age of the animal and how aggressive the treatment is. Treatment for severe cases that are not caught early usually involves extensive hospitalization, due to the severe dehydration and damage to the intestines and bone marrow. A CPV test should be given as early as possible if CPV is suspected in order to begin early treatment and increase survival rate if the disease is found.
Treatment ideally consists of crystalloid IV fluids and/or colloids, antinausea injections (antiemetics) such as metoclopramide, dolasetron, ondansetron and prochlorperazine, and antibiotic injections such as cefoxitin, metronidazole, timentin, or enrofloxacin.[29] IV fluids are administered and antinausea and antibiotic injections are given subcutaneously, intramuscularly, or intravenously. The fluids are typically a mix of a sterile, balanced electrolyte solution, with an appropriate amount of B-complex vitamins, dextrose and potassium chloride. Analgesic medications such as buprenorphine are also used to counteract the intestinal discomfort caused by frequent bouts of diarrhea.
In addition to fluids given to achieve adequate rehydration, each time the puppy vomits or has diarrhea in a significant quantity, an equal amount of fluid is administered intravenously. The fluid requirements of a patient are determined by the animal's body weight, weight changes over time, degree of dehydration at presentation and surface area.
A blood plasma transfusion from a donor dog that has already survived CPV is sometimes used to provide passive immunity to the sick dog. Some veterinarians keep these dogs on site, or have frozen serum available. There have been no controlled studies regarding this treatment.[29] Additionally, fresh frozen plasma and human albumin transfusions can help replace the extreme protein losses seen in severe cases and help assure adequate tissue healing.
Once the dog can keep fluids down, the IV fluids are gradually discontinued, and very bland food slowly introduced. Oral antibiotics are administered for a number of days depending on the white blood cell count and the patient's ability to fight off secondary infection. A puppy with minimal symptoms can recover in 2 or 3 days if the IV fluids are begun as soon as symptoms are noticed and the CPV test confirms the diagnosis. If more severe, depending on treatment, puppies can remain ill from 5 days up to 2 weeks. However, even with hospitalization, there is no guarantee that the dog will be cured and survive.
BLOAT
(GDV "Gastric Dilitation-Volvulus")
About Canine Bloat
Obvious signs are:
Frothing at the mouth
Dry heaving
Collapse
Swelled belly, rock hard
THIS IS AN IMMEDIATE EMERGENCY!!
CAN KILL WITHIN APPROX 3 HOURS !
Possible Causes:
Overeating/drinking in one meal
and then excessive exercise right before or after
High grain, fermented food
TREATMENT: Immediate Hospitalization
There are few ailments in veterinary medicine that rival the seriousness and immediacy of canine “bloat”, also known as “Gastric Dilitation-Volvulus” (GDV). For once the bloat occurs, it is the speed at which treatment is administered that determines whether or not your dog will live or die.
What is Bloat?
Bloat occurs when something goes wrong during digestion of food. Something causes gases to build up in the stomach so fast, that the stomach blows up like a balloon, stretching the organ so much that normal circulation of blood to and from the heart is cutoff. The stretching itself and the lack of blood to the stomach’s cells can cause cell death, or necrosis. What makes it even worse and more immediately serious is when the stomach actually “twists and turns” (known as Volvulus) at the top near the esophagus and at the bottom of the stomach at the pyloric valve. Picture a tootsie roll candy that’s got a wrapper twisted at both ends keeping the candy lodged inside the paper. That is exactly what happens to the stomach during bloat with volvulus. Gas is trapped and can’t escape as a burp or the other end as “passing gas”. The gas builds and builds as it becomes trapped within the stomach. The stomach grows so large it cuts-off circulation, as mentioned above and irreversible damage is done to the cells. The dog goes into shock and then cardiac arrest. This can happen within several hours after the start of bloat. That is why if you suspect your dog is experiencing this problem, you must RUSH THE DOG IMMEDIATELY, to the vet or animal hospital.
What Causes Bloat?
It is not really known what exactly triggers bloat to occur. Scientists can only make guesses due to the data taken from dogs that have experienced it. When they’ve tried to recreate the bloating conditions in a lab with test dogs, they were always unsuccessful at causing the bloat to occur intentionally.
A few examples of what scientists believe to be contributing factors to the causes of bloat are listed below:
1. Large meals eaten at one time. They recommend serving your dog two smaller meals a day, rather than just one big one.
2. Rigorous exercise done either right before a meal or right after one. You should wait one hour before feeding after exercise and one hour after eating before you let your dog run around.
3. Dry food given that is high in grain, which causes fermentation during digestion which causes gas. Dry food should have meat, meat meal and bone meal listed within the first few ingredients, not grain. In other words, dry food should have more meat than grain in it’s ingredients. [some texts claim this is not true, but most do agree with it.]
4. If only dry food is given, some people moisten it with water if it is a high end dog food. However, with lesser quality foods, less meat-based dog food, the ones that are mostly grains, it is better to NOT wet the food, since water mixed with grain will start fermentation, a process that has by-products of gas. But if the food is mostly meat, it's ok, and can actually help with digestion.
5. Mix dry food with canned food if possible.
6. Gulping large amounts of water at one time during meals. Keep water within the dogs reach at all times, except during meals.
7. Be careful of snacks and biscuits that are high in carbohydrates. Grains are carbohydrates.
8. Avoid dog food high in citric acid used as a preservative or high in fat.
Other Factors which Increase Risk of Bloat
1. Dog’s Breed - Large breed dogs are most susceptible, although on occasion, small dogs may bloat too.
2. Dog’s that are “deep-chested”. This means the length of the chest from backbone to sternum is long and the width of the chest is more narrow.
3. Dog’s that have ancestor-history of bloating. It’s thought to be hereditary.
4. Underweight, or thin dogs.
5. Anxious or fearful temperament. These dogs should always eat in an environment made as peaceful as possible for them.
6. Aggressive dogs. #’s five and six indicate that “nerves” or emotions can play a role in triggering a bloat episode.
7. Males dogs get it more than female.
8. Older dogs are more at risk than young. (older than 7 yrs.)
Signs and Symptoms
Know your dog. Most of the symptoms are behavioral, at least in the very beginning, so your dog will start to act differently. The abdomen is stretched to many times its normal size due to an increase of gas. It will blow up like a balloon and is one of the first most obvious signs. In some cases, this part of the bloat event, can’t been seen. But, usually you can see the distended abdomen which will also feel very hard to the touch, like a ball that has been pumped-up with too much air.
This event causes SEVERE abdominal pain. So, you may see that your dog is acting uncomfortable, pacing the floor, not being about to find a comfortable position to lie down or may make sounds like he is in pain.
The biggest, most obvious symptom is the that the dog appears to be nauseated. He will unsuccessfully attempt to vomit and will retch and gag, but nothing comes up, or very little if any. He will also attempt to have a bowel movement, assume the position, but again, nothing comes out. Excessive drooling is also a common symptom.
IF ANY OF THESE THINGS HAPPEN, CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN OR RUSH YOUR DOG TO THE NEAREST ANIMAL HOSPITAL. It is better to be safe than sorry. As mentioned earlier, there are only a few hours available to handle this problem, so time is everything in a case of bloat. Your vet will put everything else aside to address your dog’s condition.
Yellow Lab with bloat after he has been sedated. Before his sedation he was crying in pain. Notice how is stomach is bloated and full looking.
How do They Treat Bloat
There are only two basic things that are done to the dog in the case of bloat. The first thing a vet may try is to insert a tube down the throat making a passage for the gas to escape. But if the stomach has twisted, volvulus, surgery is the only solution. The vet will have to make an incision into the stomach and relieve the gas that way. While in there, he may decide to perform what is called gastropexy. This is where the stomach is actually stapled into its normal position, or anchored into place, so that it can not blowup should there be another episode of bloat.
Even if the dog has been relieved of the bloat with just a tube and not surgery, he should be surgically examined regardless, so that the vet may assess the damage done by the episode. Damaged parts of the stomach may need to be removed, or the patient’s owner may decide to allow gastroplexy since many dogs that experience bloat, often go through it again at a later date. Sometimes only a day or two later, they may bloat again.
It is a good idea to have on hand at home, an over the counter drug such as, Phazyme, Mylanta Gas (not regular Mylanta) or Gas-X. They contain simethicone which helps reduce gas. This may buy you a little more time to get to a vet.
EAR CROPPING
It is totally your decision whether to crop your new puppy's ears (below)
or to have them stay natural.. (below)
Personally, I love the cropped look :o) BUT .. that IS a personal preference... if you have decided you want to crop your puppy's ears, here is some information that i have gathered throughout the years to help you with the process..
Timing:
My rule of thumb is to have the ears done either at 10 weeks or 20 pounds, wichever comes first, up to 14 weeks of age. Do not wait too long for the cropping... the older the puppy is:
- the more intrusive it will be
- the harder it will be for them to stand
- the veins grow larger which can produce more blood post-surgery
- and the cartilage is no longer soft and pliable to produce a tall standing ear.
So timing is EVERYTHING!!.. 10 wks/20lbs to 14 weeks of age.
After Surgery:
You will probably receive your puppy back with sutures in the ears and the ears drooping down. There should be very little to NO blood if done early enough. You should have been sent home with an "Amoxi" type of antibiotics from your Vet, and instructions to try and keep the ears dry and clean.
Approximately 5 days after the surgery the sutures will come out. If there is no sign of infection, and the wounds have healed nicely, then the taping begins !!.. BUT.. if there are any signs of scabbing, wait until they have healed and have fallen off before taping.. this can cause scarring and you dont want that. Make sure to administer all of the antibiotics until gone. This will ensure no infection will set in, especially when the taping begins.
Taping:
The taping should be done free of charge as part of the cropping service.. however, it's nice to be able to "correct" or "retape" when necessary. You'll find the taping can get really "stinky" or starting to fall off, or tilting.. if that happens you will want to remove the taping and correct the problem yourself, without having to take the puppy to the Vet every time something occurs. For that reason, i have attached a few helpful links below for your viewing and reading pleasure !!..
AND.. the rule of thumb on taping is 5-7 days on and 3 days off to air them out...
I RECOMMEND... the short to medium crop !!.. the Show Crop is a very tall crop that is extremely hard to stand ! It could take up to a year for them to stand.. especially with the European Danes with the thicker heavier ear.. you'll notice Khadian has a Show Crop.. very tall and very thick.. 
EAR TAPING LINKS
THIS IS HOW I DO MY TAPINGS, WITH A TAMPON AND TAPE...
http://www.all-about-great-danes.com/dog-ear-problem.html
HERE ARE OTHER TAPING METHODS TO CONSIDER...
http://www.greatdanelady.com/articles/how_to_tape_ears_text.htm
http://www.earhalo.com/
VIDEO...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chiV4ekcezc
NUTRITION...
Note: DO NOT ...
Do not change your puppy's food more than 2 times before the age of 8 months...and when transitioning to another food make the transition over to the new food gradually, within 3 days time...
When it comes to raising your Great Dane puppy... most people can't agree on what types of food they should buy for their new baby because of everything they have heard about the excellerated pace that some foods promote , and the growth of the Great Danes bones and muscular structure ...Nutrition can cause many problems if not chosen wisely, it can cause HOD, Knuckling/Bowing, Obesity, Bloat... etc.. so monitor your puppy's growth every day until they have matured to at least 7 months of age... educate yourself on the things to look for and be aware of, talk to your vet, and feel confident in the food that your puppy eats.
I am not promoting methods, nor am i a Veterinarian, so for this reason, i have decided to include this section of suggestions and opinions, about nutrition and what has worked, and what hasn't worked for individuals that has actually experienced these potential dietary problems...i will have more later when i get time to write more ... there is sooo much to say!!!!
enjoy your day!
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RUNNY POOPY!
A NOTE FROM
"Meghan"
... So I've tried Luna on several premium dog foods and no matter what it just hasn't aggreed with her... I triend various different protien sources and even paid reallllly excessive amounts for grain free dog food... I finally took her to my vet at home in Akron where my childhood dog that my mom stole lived. (she had to stay home when I went to school cause she was just to old for the move...) Anyways... My vet at home is AMAZING. Honestly, this guy went to pharmacy school and vet school. He's big time into pet nutrition and recomended I added a supplement to her food called the Missing Link. It's fairly pricey, but as soon as I started adding it to Luna's food her stool firmed up and I was able to feed her a less expensive (but still quality) dog food. I just thought I'd pass this along since Gread Danes are know for having tempramental stomaches. I dunno if it will work for everyone, but it honestly instantly helped Luna and now I don't have to worry about any mishaps in the car happening again with her chonic diareah. That's all I got for now but I look forward to meeting you all soon!
RESPONSE FROM "Kelly"...
Never heard of MissingLink but,we had problems with Cooper too. He would vomit almost everytime after he ate. His stool was always runny and had no form to it. We finally found a food that firmed up his stool and he (knock on wood) has not vomitted once since he has been on it.It's called Natural choice grain free, with venison meal and potatoe formula.The first ingredient listed is real venison.Protein is 21% and fat is 12%. If you buy a bag and it dosent work after three weeks you can take back the empty bag to the store and get a FULL refund. But if it works and you continue to use it, go to their website and signup for there program. I have gotten 4 cupons for $10.00 off a bag. So thats a free bag of food!! Hope this helps, too!!
Here is a great website to compare foods and nutritional values... including organic and raw.. and pricing!!
http://www.all-about-great-danes.com/feeding-great-danes.html
How to read food labels Link
http://www.mainelydanes.com/dogfoodlabels.html
Dog food analysis Link
http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/
Things to consider for Nutritional Value:
Protien Content
Fat Content
Fiber
Moisture
Grain
Omega 3
probiotics
HOD/Great Dane Bone growth/Bowing/Knuckling
http://www.greatdanelady.com/articles/knuckling_over.htm
Why Do Dogs Eat Their Own Poo?
Almost every dog owner has experienced the dismay of catching Rover eating his own "poo." To humans, coprophagia, the act of eating solid waste, seems disgusting and wrong. Your dog may develop the habit for several reasons.
Causes
Coprophagia might develop from poor diet, causing the dog to seek nutrients from other sources, according to the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association. Boredom and the physical inability to absorb sufficient nutrition from food also cause coprophagia.
Types
Dogs with coprophagia will either eat their own stools or eat the stools of other animals.
Bored dogs or dogs with nutritional issues can develop coprophagia at any time, according to the CVMA. However, genetically predisposed dogs start eating stools in late puppyhood and stop at about the age of 1 year.
The CVMA recommends a diet high in fat, fiber and protein and low in carbohydrates to reduce stool eating. Increasing activity or providing toys might help boredom-induced coprophagia.
Once started, coprophagia is a difficult habit to break in your dog. Medications that make stools unpalatable can be added to the dog's food
Read more: Why Do Dogs Eat Their Own Poo? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/facts_5513905_do-dogs-eat-own-poo.html#ixzz1INBD8k31
Definition of Coprophagia
Coprophagia is the ingestion of poop that is neither accidental nor incidental. It is deliberate and habitual.
Other abnormal canine eating issues include pica (eating of nonfood material), psychogenic water drinking (consuming more water than necessary for regular daily use), anorexia (starvation to the point of extreme, and deadly weight loss), and gorging (serious, unhealthy overeating).
The focus here is on coprophagia and why dogs eat poop. But, you’ll see that dogs can have a variety of other eating problems. Interestingly, you’ll probably also notice that several of these eating problems are also found in humans, such as anorexia and gorging. We’re kind of like our canine friends sometimes, aren’t we.
Below there are 20 reasons listed why dogs eat poop. In addition, at the end of this article you’ll see a summarization of the reasons. Hopefully you will understand exactly why dogs eat poop so that you can solve the problem or take some action to improve the situation.
Why Dogs Eat Poop: 20 Reasons
1. Your dog might be hungry. If your dog doesn't have access to food, he might eat poop.
2. Some dogs will eat poop to clean up an area like a housekeeper. This is most likely if your dog is confined to a crate or kennel, or when he's chained up or otherwise restricted. He's taking care of his space.
3. If your dog likes to carry poop, and then eat it, it could be genetics. Some dogs have instincts to carry stuff in their mouths.
4. Your dog might be eating poop because of parasites or worms. They can suck nutrients out of your dog, driving him to eat poop. It might also leave him extra hungry because of the lack of proper fuel.
5. Your dog might be eating cat poop or other animal poop to get key nutrients and minerals not available in his own food.
6. Some dogs will simply eat poop to pass the time. Dogs will eat poop because they are bored or lonely. It can be a sign of neglect.
7. Your dog might eat poop because he's anxious, nervous or otherwise upset. Stress will drive animals to do odd things.
8. Some dogs will eat poop to hide the evidence. If you punish your dog for pooping, he might eat it to stop you from getting angry.
9. If your dog has puppies, she might eat puppy poop. This is an instinct to hide the poop from predators. Poop is evidence. Getting ride of it keeps her puppies safe.
10. Some young dogs and puppies will eat poop as a novelty. That is, they'll eat poop as an experiment. They don't know better.
11. If your dog watches you pick up poop, he might learn to do the same. This is called allelomimetic behavior. Your dog observes you and learns from you, by putting the poop in his mouth you put poop in a bag.
12. Your dog might see others dogs eating poop. From this, they learn to eat poop too.
13. Many dogs simply like the taste of poop. This obviously doesn't make sense to dog owners but that's irrelevant. Some dog like to eat it and that's that. It's warm, moist, and very much like what your dog was given as a very young puppy.
14. If your dog food lacks key nutrients, he might eat poop. Your dog is trying to get "food" with nutrients any way possible, even from his own poop.
15. Sometimes dog poop seems like dog food. This can happen when dog food is low quality and includes materials that are easily passed and not absorbed by your dog. When the dog poops, it seems to be very much like the food he just consumed!
16. In some cases, dogs will eat poop if they are given too much food. This is especially true if your dog's diet is high in fat.
17. Some dogs will eat poop to gain attention. Many dog owners get very upset when their dog eats poop, which means the dog gets attention. This is a wonderful opportunity for your dog to interact with you, although it is because of negative attention.
18. It is possible that some dogs will eat the poop of other, more dominant dogs. Your dog might be more submissive than other dogs, resulting in strange poop eating behavior. This seems to occur more in households with multiple dogs where dominance and submission is a factor. Obviously this doesn't explain much about dogs eating cat poop or other animal poop.
19. It is possible that your dog wants to eat more than one time per day. If you only feed your dog once per day, and your dog eats poop, it could be an indication they want to eat more frequently.
20. In some cases, your dog will eat poop by accident. Dogs are curious and will try to eat almost anything, including poop. Dogs explore the world through taste and smell, much more than humans.
TOPICS COMING SOON...
- Potty Training Tips ... ( we all need !!.. :o)
Color Code (color purity)
Conformation
Nutrition
... Any suggestions !.. :o)